10 Ways to Custom Fabric Printing

There are several ways to print designs on fabric and textiles, each with its own advantages depending on your needs, the specific fabric you’re using, and the design you want to create. If you’re wondering how to achieve professional fabric printing, consider the following techniques and methods:

Screen Fabric Printing

Screen printing is a traditional way of producing printed silks. The silk screen printing process involves multiple steps that require a high level of skill and expertise to execute correctly.

When it comes to screen printing, everything needs to be set up by hand in order to create the screen (stencils) ready for print, with the exception of inkjet printing. Although it is a slower and more meticulous method of printing, screen printing on silk produces elegant results. The vibrant colors produced by this technique make it ideal for those seeking to print bold and bright designs on darker colored fabrics.

During the extrusion process, the squeegee forces the ink through the mesh of the screen’s pattern and onto the fabric, creating the same pattern on the fabric.

Since each color in the pattern requires a separate screen frame and printing pass, screen printing is not recommended for complex designs with multiple colors. However, patterns with simple colors can be printed with great effect.

It’s worth noting that there is a fixed fee for creating each screen frame. Thus, screen printing is more cost-effective for larger orders, such as those exceeding 500 pieces, as the printing cost per product will be lower.

You can achieve special patterns in screen printing ink by incorporating certain materials. For instance, adding reflective powder to the ink will cause the patterns on the fabric to reflect bright lights. Similarly, incorporating luminous powder in the ink will allow the printed pattern to absorb light in the presence of bright light and then glow in the dark.

These are two specific techniques within the screen printing process:

Water-based printing

Water-based printing ink can be absorbed by fabric because its main component is water, similar to how fabric is dyed. This results in patterns that feel like they’re a natural part of the fabric, with a soft and breathable texture. As a result, it’s a great option for large printing areas.

Water-based printing is a widely used method that can be applied to almost any light-colored fabric, including cotton, polyester, and linen, among others. The printed patterns are durable and can withstand multiple washes thanks to good color fastness. Additionally, it’s a cost-effective option. However, the pattern coverage is poor, which means that printing on dark fabrics may not produce the desired effect.

Plastisol printing

Plastisol printing utilizes dyes that are incapable of being absorbed by the fabric, resulting in a printed design that appears raised on the surface. Due to its thickness, the printed area feels harder than the surrounding unprinted fabric, which makes it less breathable and potentially alters the texture of the fabric. As such, it is best suited for small-area printing, such as logos or small patterns.

However, plastisol printing does have its benefits. It can reproduce designs accurately and the printed colors are vibrant. It also offers the ability to print in any color, and special color and visual effects can be achieved by adding pearl powder, ultra-fine copper/aluminum/tin, or other metal powders.

Plastisol printing is a complementary method to water-based printing. It provides good coverage for printed patterns, making it suitable for light-colored and dark-colored fabrics, which overcomes the limitations of watermarks.

However, the durability of plastisol printed patterns can be affected by the quality of ink used, and may crack, peel, or fade after repeated washing. On the other hand, plastisol printing is more complex than water-based printing, which incurs a higher cost.

Digital Fabric Printing

While it is generally understood that most manufacturing processes contribute to harmful waste and negative environmental impacts to some extent, recent innovative technologies have provided more options for seeking out environmentally friendly methods of producing goods.

In terms of textile and clothing production, digital printing is the most popular method of fabric printing sought out by companies and designers. Not only is it a fast and efficient way to transfer designs onto a variety of fabrics with stunning results, but it is also highly regarded as one of the most eco-friendly printing fabric methods available.

Digital printing (also known as DTG/Direct Ink-Jet printing) involves spraying dye directly onto textile to create a desired pattern. It functions similarly to an office printer, which prints ink directly onto paper. The process is easy: simply upload the pattern onto a computer, insert the fabric, and begin printing, as shown in the following video.

This method has no limit to the number of colors, making it possible to print complex multi-color designs. Additionally, it can produce various effects, such as three-dimensional, gradient colors, and old-fashioned styles. The pattern is clear and vivid, and it can present high-quality printed patterns on any fabric, including light-colored and dark-colored cotton, polyester, nylon, polyester-cotton, silk, and denim.

The dye penetrates the fiber and blends with the fabric, resulting in the printed parts feeling the same as other parts of the material. The printed parts are soft and breathable. After being fixed at high temperatures, the printing has high color fastness and does not easily fade.

Unlike screen printing, which requires making a plate before production, direct-to-garment printing charges according to the printing area and doesn’t have a fixed plate-making fee. This makes it very suitable for small orders and print-on-demand, with no minimum order quantity (even one piece can be printed). However, for mass production, it can be very time-consuming and costly, so it may not be the best choice.

Cyanotype Fabric Printing

It’s interesting to note that cyanotype has been in use since the mid-1800s. This vibrant blueprinting technique was widely used to swiftly and affordably reproduce photographs and documents. In fact, cyanotype prints were frequently utilized to print maps and plans, which is how we came to use the term blueprint.

Nowadays you can buy pretreated fabrics that are ready to use right out of the package if you want to try cyanotype printing at home. All you have to do is follow the manufacturer’s instructions: place objects or a photo transparency over the fabric, expose it to sunlight for several minutes and then submerge in water to develop your print. If you want to experiment with cyanotype printing on a wider variety of fabrics and surfaces including wool, paper, or wood, you can treat your own substrate with specialty chemicals. Here’s a brief tutorial from Sue Reno with all the details you’ll need to create successful cyanotype prints using the Jacquard Cyanotype Set.

Sublimation Fabric Printing

Sublimation is a printing process where special dyes are first printed onto transfer paper. Then, using heat and pressure, the dyes on the transfer paper turn into gas and permeate the fabric, creating a permanent pattern on it.

Unlike other printing methods, sublimation allows the ink to be absorbed into the textile, so the printed areas do not feel like an additional layer on top of the fabric. In addition, the printed parts and the rest of the fabric have the same texture and are not prone to fading. Sublimation is also versatile, allowing you to print any pattern, color, or gradient you want without any restrictions.

Although sublimation can create high quality prints, it is limited to polyester fabrics or fabrics containing over 80% polyester. This makes it suitable for items like quick-drying t-shirts, shorts, and sports towels, but not for pure cotton fabrics.

Heat transfer Fabric Printing

Heat transfer printing is a two-step process. First, the pattern is printed onto special transfer paper using ink. Then, the paper is heated in a machine to transfer the pattern onto the fabric.

The difference between heat transfer printing and other methods is that the transfer paper has glue that sticks the pattern to the fabric after heating and melting. As a result, the printed pattern feels like an extra layer on top of the fabric, which reduces air permeability and makes it unsuitable for large-area printing.

Heat transfer printing is commonly used for small batch printing, such as printing patterns on clothing. It offers bright colors, realistic patterns, fast production, and low cost. However, the quality of the ink and the thickness of the printing directly affect the firmness and saturation of the color.

This method is versatile and can be used for many fabrics, including cotton, polyester, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, leather, and luggage fabrics. Different heat transfer films can also be used to achieve different effects, such as colorful reflective, laser, luminous, and three-dimensional effects. Specific examples will be given in the following sections.

Roller Fabric Printing

This process involves engraving patterns onto a roller and then applying dye to the surface of the roller. The dye is then scraped off the unengraved parts using a scraper. When the roller is pressed onto the fabric, the dye in the engraved parts is transferred to the fabric, forming a pattern.

Each roller is capable of printing only one color. If multiple rollers are installed on the printing equipment, a variety of colors can be printed. The roller can be engraved with delicate lines to create intricate patterns and can also print on the entire fabric.

The machine can print at a speed of 70-100 meters per minute. Once the roller is prepared and the equipment is adjusted, it can print millions of yards of fabric with ease, making it a fast mass-production method. However, the preparation process is costly and time-consuming, making it uneconomical for small orders.

Another printing technique that combines Roller printing and Sublimation printing is also available. This method involves printing patterns onto transfer paper and then transferring the pattern from the paper to the fabric at high temperatures. It is capable of meeting the mass production of various printings, with fast production speeds and friendly prices.

Discharge Fabric Printing

To achieve white or other colored patterns on dyed fabric, use screen printing to apply discharge ink containing a reductant or oxidant. This method is especially effective on dark textiles and results in a soft hand feel with clear and delicate patterns and good printing effects. Keep in mind that the fabric will likely have a peculiar smell after the printing process and should be washed in water.

These are all printing methods used to print patterns on fabrics. If you’re looking to print three-dimensional patterns, there are five additional types of textile printing you can explore.

Flock Fabric Printing

To create a pattern, the traditional flocking printing method involves printing an adhesive onto the textile using screen printing and then applying flocking powder to the pattern through an electrostatic field of certain voltage. However, this process is time-consuming and expensive, as it requires repeated printing and drying of the adhesive on the fabric, as shown in the video.

Alternatively, flocking can be achieved simply through heat transfer by printing patterns onto flocking heat transfer film and transferring it from the paper onto the fabric. This technique is commonly used in the garment industry and produces patterns with a plush feel and strong three-dimensional appearance. However, it should be noted that frequent washing may cause the flocking to fall off.

3D concave-convex Fabric Printing

The printing method discussed here produces a distinct 3D effect for text and logos. Two methods are commonly used to create concave-convex patterns.

The first method involves screen printing the pattern onto the fabric. A special liquid is then applied along the outline of the pattern, causing it to shrink and form a concave-convex effect when exposed to high-temperature steam.

Alternatively, a layer of Silica gel can be printed onto the fabric first, followed by using a concave-convex mold to press the fabric and create a three-dimensional printing pattern via heat transfer. This method requires a specific design and involves a plate-making fee, which is determined by the number of plates required.

Puff Fabric Printing

Puff printing is a technique that builds on the foundation of plastisol printing. It involves incorporating a heat-activated foaming agent into the plastisol ink and then using screen printing to apply it to the fabric. Once the fabric is dried at a high temperature (200-300°C), the ink expands and puffs up, creating a 3D effect. The printed area feels soft to the touch and is commonly used for cotton and nylon textiles.

However, similar to plastisol printing, it is not recommended to use large-scale printing due to its poor air permeability, which can cause the 3D effect to gradually flatten after multiple washes.

Raised Rubber Fabric Printing

The printing technique utilized for achieving a prominent three-dimensional effect is plastisol printing. To achieve this effect, the process involves repeating the printing for more than 8 times using plastisol printing. However, the cost involved in this technique is high, as it requires high-quality ink and skilled workers. Small printing factories, in general, cannot meet these requirements, making it unsuitable for small-batch orders.

Another printing technique involves printing the desired pattern on rubber transfer paper and subsequently transferring the pattern to fabric using heat press. This is an application of heat transfer printing and yields better results than the previous method. The best use cases for this technique include letters, simple graphics, etc., and it enables fast production with no quantity requirement.

Custom fabric printing services

Above, we have listed some popular fabric printing techniques. With so many different types of printing available, it can be difficult to choose the right one for your pattern. If you’re having trouble deciding which one to use, simply send us a picture and we’ll help you analyze the pattern and recommend the most suitable printing technique. We’ll then contact the factory for production, and arrange a quality inspection and cargo transportation.

Onestopimport, which is a leading sourcing company in China, with a wealth of experience in helping clients print patterns on various textiles such as T-shirts, sweaters, pants, hats, bags, and more. We offer a variety of printing methods, and no matter how complex your pattern may be, we can find the best printing solution for you based on our 10+ years of experience.

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